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Glossary

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A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Ato Zome—Refers to fabric that is decorated after weaving.

Fukuro Obi—“double fold” Formal obi. The oldest form called hon-bukuro is woven in a tube. Newer ones called nui-bukuro are two pieces sewn separately and sewn together. They are patterned fully or 60% on one side.

Fukuro Nagoya Obi or Kagari Obi—“cross-stitched” partly doubled lengthwise and sewn on edges, partly doubled widthwise.

Furisode—“waving sleeve” A formal long-sleeved kimono worn by unmarried women. Waving the sleeve was thought to attract a husband. Sleeve length may vary between 75cm and 105cm.

Hagaki--"postcard." Picture postcards became popular for collecting and correspondance in the first decade of the 20th century. An excellent introduction to Japanese postcard collecting may be found at PostcardGuide Japan.

Haori Himo—“jacket cords” Short cords with loops or hooks for tying haori.

Haori—“to put on” A light jacket for women or shirt for men. Its shape is similar to a kimono, but shorter and tied with haori himo (short cords) so that it meets in the middle. Haori were originally worn by women in the Edo Period (1603-1868) in imitation of men’s clothing, but now they are part of the formal outfit for graduations and other ceremonies. More casual haori are usually worn for warmth or protection from dirt and are not worn indoors. Approximate average size is shown below.

Sleeve Length 45cm
Sleeve width 32cm
Body Width, folded flat 58cm
Body width, when tied 49
Length 75cm

Hitoe Obi—“one layer” Informal unlined obi for casual kimono or yukata.

Iro Tomesode—Formal colored kimono for married women.

Kimono—“thing to wear” Collectively refers to Japanese clothing, although there are many types. The most common reference is the one-piece robe or dress worn in some form since Classical Heian Japan in the 9th century. The modern style developed in the Meiji Era (1868-1912). Kimono are hand-sewn and it is said that if you take one apart, the pieces will fit back neatly into the original long rectangle of fabric. Kimono are based on straight lines and fold neatly along seams. Standard size is shown below.

Sleeve Length 49cm
Sleeve width 32cm
Body Width, folded flat 62cm
Length 158cm

Kokeshi--Simple wooden doll made in Northern Honshu (Japan's main island). There are about ten traditional styles and a myriad of other creative styles.

Kuro Montsuki Haori—Formal black crested haori

Kuro Tomesode—Formal black crested kimono for married women.

Maru Obi—Most formal obi. Woven double width and folded over so that the pattern appears on both sides.

Mon or kamon—Family crest. A stylized circular symbol displayed on clothing and used to identify family. There are thousands of forms, most with natural motifs. Design is dyed or woven at the back neck and top center of front and back of sleeves of the most formal black kimono (sometimes called a “five-mon kimono”). Slightly less formal are three-mon kimono with mon at the back neck and the top center back of sleeves. Formal haori and other kimono may have a single mon at the back neck.

Nagoya Obi—Woven obi with a portion of the length folded to half-width.

Obi—“belt or sash” A decorative sash for kimono. In the Middle Edo Period (18th century), the utilitarian cords gave way to these wide woven accessory pieces. Kabuki actors made creative and outlandish bows popular and several hundred ways of tying the bow are known today. Of course there are different types of obi for various occasions; they vary in length, width, weaving technique, color and design. Standard size is shown below.

Length 360cm
Width 26cm

Obiage--long crepe shibori fabric used with the obi. It helps secure the obi bow and just peeks out in front at the top of the obi.

Obijime--long cord tied outside the obi for decoration.

Saki Zome—Refers to fabric that has been woven with dyed threads.

Shibori--refers to any of the Japanese processes by which fabric is gathered, sewn, tied, or manipulated before dyeing. The result is a pleasing blurred edge to the design and a slight wrinkle imprinted on the fabric.

Shiro Muku—“pure white” White kimono worn with white and silver or gold obi for part of the wedding ceremony.

Sode-“sleeve”

Tabi Socks--Split-toe socks to wear with geta (thong-style) sandals. We recommend visiting Cool East Market for information and purchase. They offer tabi socks in several styles and colors.

Tsuke Obi—Two piece pre-tied obi bow and sash. Very informal for casual wear.

Uchikake—Ceremonial over-kimono worn without obi so that the padded hem trails. Part of the bride’s presentation costume for the reception. Based on the elaborate kimono of Classical Heian Japanese court (9th through 12th centuries). Approximate average size appears below.

Sleeve Length 103cm
Body Width 60cm
Sleeve tip to sleeve tip 130cm
Hem width 140
Length 180cm

Yakusha Hagaki--actor postcard." Kabuki and other stage actors sat in studio or on stage for photographs in the 1910s and 1920s. See Hagaki.

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